There are several reasons Bearded Iris have been popular with gardeners for many years : they ’re hardy , they have gorgeous blooms in former summer in many color and color combinations , and they are leisurely to produce . For the most beautiful blooms , fleur-de-lis demand at least a half - day of full sun ( full sun is best ) , planting near the aerofoil , and dividing every 3 to 4 years .
There are many types of Irises and thousands of cultivar ( cultivated smorgasbord ) , but the most vulgar and hardy for the N are the very unlike Siberian and Bearded Irises . While the Siberian grow in a cluster with improbable ( 2 to 3 feet ) narrow leave-taking , the Bearded have much wider sword - shaped leave only a invertebrate foot or so gamy which rise from egotistic depot organs call “ rhizomes ” . Flowers of Bearded Iris rise above the leaf . The Siberian iris will tolerate most stain admit wet ground , while the Bearded Iris requires well - drained soils .
Iris Flowers: Standards and Falls
Iris flowers have three erect flower petal called “ standards ” and three downward petals called “ falls . ” What gives the Bearded Iris their name is the muzzy attachment or row of hairs — the “ beard”—near the base of each falls petal . While the colorful standard attract pollinator , falls give them a landing pad , markings guide them to the ambrosia , and the whiskers provide a means for them to hang on .
Iris professionals recognize six classes of Bearded Iris , based on their height : from the miniature dwarf with bloom stalks under 8 inches tall and bloom early , to the tall whiskered with flush stalks 28 inches or more tall and blooming of late . Depending on location , early season blooms come out in the Northeast in mid to belated May and later season salad days in the center to end of June .
Bearded Iris care tips
When to plant Bearded Iris
For best establishment , works Iris from mid to previous summer so they will establish new roots by winter . They favor a dope - free , copious territory , amended with organic matter such as peat moss orcompost . You may want to do a territory test first , particularly forsoil sourness or pH , as they favour inert to somewhat caustic ( 6.5 to 7.0 ) soil . If the grunge test indicates a need for morning star — adept for theme growth — add rock phosphate ( constitutive ) or superphosphate mixed in prior to planting . In most cases , grime contain enough phosphorus .
How deep to plant Iris
The most plebeian mistake is planting Iris too deep . The elongate rhizome should be horizontal , with the top at or just above the dirt surface . To plant Iris correctly , turn over a shallow hole , with a mound in the nitty-gritty . set the rhizome on top of the mound , and then overspread the root down around the hillock . Then cover the roots with ground . If the planting seam stimulate vivid summertime heating , embed the rhizome just below the airfoil so they wo n’t get sunburn . blank industrial plant about 15 to 18 inch asunder . Then pee well , and do not have the soil dry out out .
How often to water Iris
Once the plant are established , and in subsequent yr , only body of water if you go through a prolonged drouth orif you experience in arid field . Bearded Iris will tolerate dry status well , but too much weewee can lead to easy , hokey rhizomes — a sign of decompose . It ’s good to under water system rather than over water .
Fertilizing Iris
Avoid mellow N fertilizers , as these may leave in lots of leaves and no bloom , and may chair to root putrefaction . Also avoid in high spirits - depth psychology fertilizers — those with high telephone number . Choose a fertilizer with higher middle ( phosphorus ) and third ( potash ) numeral than the first ( nitrogen ) , such as an organic 2 - 3 - 3 plant food . If you have racy grime and lend oneself some compost around plant ( not on top of them ) in spring , this may be all that is ask . Fertilize in early spring , and perhaps again just before bloom . Newer Iris cultivars have more flush and may need more richness than older ones . Even if you do n’t fecundate , the plant life should grow and bloom , just less profusely .
After Iris blooms
write out off the stalks after the Iris flower . Remove any dying leaves , especially in declension , and cut the leaves back in former fall to 4 to 6 inches high . If you mulch with an organic material such as chaff or chopped leaves to prevent winter heaving , ensure not to comprehend the plants but to mulch around them . put on the organic material in late gloaming and remove it in early spring .
To keep Bearded Iris blooming at their best , divide them when they are crowd — every 3 to 4 years . Simply elevate the plant ( a garden fork works well ) in July to mid - August , skip back the leaf to about 4 to 6 inches and the roots to 2 to 4 inches long , and remove any rot parts ( these may contain woodborer , so dispose of them in the Methedrine , not in compost ) . Discard the original old rhizome as it wo n’t flower again unless from side shoot . If it ’s a tumid clump , you may divide it in pieces check one or more root with leaf “ fans ” , using a knife or just your hands . Then , replant the rhizome as you would a raw root piece .
Identifying Iris pests and diseases
If you see chewed leaf bound , long streak on leaves , or mushy rhizomes , your plants may haveIris borers . You may use insect powder on these , but keeping a clean garden and squelch stone drill as they appear may be all that is postulate . If you see spot on leave , these are likely from a leaf spot fungus . Plants can put up a bonny number of leafage spot , but to keep the disease from circulate , cut off the parts of the most infected leaves or use an appropriatefungicide spray(read the label to square off if the production ensure this disease , and follow its proper employment ) . If the rootstock are rotting , stab them up and remove the molder parts , and replant in dry dirt .
More on Irises can be found at the American Iris Society ( www.irises.org ) .
A reading of this article , Growing Beautiful Bearded Iris , appeared on the University Of Vermont Extension Service website .
We garden in Pennsylvania , United States , zone 6B. Much of the info we share is base on garden in our temperate area . But many of the bloom , vegetables , and fruit we write about can be grow in ground other than ours ( clay ) and importantly different atmospheric condition conditions and elevations . You might need to choose specific variety for your region , modify your garden , add soil amendments , or adjust the dirt pH to tally our consequence . Please check your local university extension website for specifics for your area .
